Washington, DC: My Own Little Slice of Paris

Paris, France
Cathedral Notre Dame

If you’ve been following this baby of a blog that I recently created, it’s probably no secret to you that I’m a raging Francophile. In my mind, France embodies everything that is good in this world: amazing food, fashion, and romance (in order of importance, of course). On my dreamiest days, I picture myself in a bright-yellow, eyelet dress, riding a bike with a baguette-stuffed basket on the front, coasting lazily through fields of lavender on my way home from town.

Make no mistake… I would probably not fit in very well in France. First off, as it turns out, I am actually not French. I had a hard time coming to terms with this fact. But after admitting to myself that a) I was not born in France, b) I do not speak French fluently, and c) I have no French relatives, I was forced to draw the only logical conclusion. Also, I’m pretty boorish for a lady.  Don’t let the fantasy eyelet dress fool you.  I tell dirty jokes, laugh very loudly, and rather enjoy making a spectacle of myself.  Very un-chic. 



Luckily, I happen to live in a city that allows me to act out some of my French fantasies and doesn’t raise an eyebrow while I’m doing so. Washington, DC is a planned city, designed by French-born architect Pierre L’Enfant. The wide avenues radiating from the city’s majestic landmarks and monuments were meant to evoke the feel of Paris. DC’s grandest avenue is the National Mall, which bears a striking resemblance to Paris’s Champs-Élysées; each is dotted with famous national landmarks, spaced at regular intervals. Fortunately, my walk home from work takes me down our avenue, past the Capital and Washington Monument. More than once I’ve caught myself reminiscing about my trips to our sister city across the pond.  

Washington, DC

The National Cathedral

I’ll be the first to admit that Washington lacks that certain Je ne sais quoi of Paris. You would be hard-pressed to find a winding alleyway in DC, and sidewalk cafés are not spilling out into every street. But if you look hard enough, you can find charm here. Trendy Dupont Circle is home to the lion’s share of the city’s 176 foreign embassy houses, making it a neighborhood full of stately mansions and international flare. In Georgetown, upscale shops and restaurants crowd cobblestone streets. The Eastern Market area features a large, open-air market and is lined with beautiful, multi-colored Victorian row homes.
  

Cultural opportunities in Washington go beyond the Americana associated with some of our most frequently visited museums and monuments. The Phillips Collection and Kreeger Museum both feature wonderful collections from the French Impressionists. If I ever wanted to go to church, you can bet I’ll head straight for the National Cathedral, which has elements of Paris’s gothic Cathédral Notre Dame.  Whether you’re religious or not, it’s great for viewing gorgeous architecture. With such a large international community, Washingtonians have easy access to a variety of multi-cultural events. In an effort to become more connected to my adoptive homeland, I’ve even started taking French language classes from chic ladies at the Alliance Française de Washington. 

Washington’s farmers’ markets, metro train system (which just so happens to share a name with Paris’s underground), and small, specialty shops encourage a European lifestyle that leaves DC citizens healthy (Washington is consistently ranked as one of the fittest cities in the nation) and donning a relatively small carbon footprint.  And I can’t speak for my fellow Washingtonians, but I really enjoy life. I’m not climbing the corporate ladder, and I’m not married with children (why are these the only two options for American women these days?!), but I’m one of the most successful people I know when it comes to having a really good time. Having access to a plethora of amazing restaurants and bars helps. But on nights when we can’t make it out, my boyfriend and I split a bottle of wine (Alsatian, obviously) from the well-stocked liquor store a block from our house and linger over a dinner made from fresh, local products. It’s our little way of channeling the European philosophy that one should savor life’s daily gifts.  And it will have to do until my next trip home… ahem, I mean back. 

Champs-Elysees, Paris, France

The National Mall, Washington, DC

The Ten Most Relaxing Places in Europe

Hillside Town, Provence, France

Many Americans visit Europe to sample its cultural offerings, hopping from museum to castle to cathedral in order to make the most of their long and expensive flights across the Atlantic. We tend to opt for the Caribbean or Hawaii when we want some R&R.  But there are plenty of spots in Europe that are better savored than glossed over.  Plus, wherever you go in Europe, you’re almost guaranteed the added benefits of charming architecture and delicious food.  So linger over an amazing meal, wander slowly through winding alleyways, and… just enjoy the view.



Provence, France:  Sun, dancing lavender fields, and amazing food and wine make it difficult to get motivated during a trip to Provence… but that’s ok – you’re on vacation. And once you’re here, you’ll easily slip into a routine of visiting open-air markets in the morning, taking your spoils to a scenic spot for a picnic lunch, and maybe seeing a site or doing a wine tasting before enjoying a leisurely dinner. A visit here is all about opening up your senses and soaking in the pleasures of your surroundings.



Norwegian Fjords

The Highlands, Scotland:  Britain’s most remote corner has a mystical spirit; it will lure you in with its misty forests, foggy lakes, and intriguing folklore. Like the scenery, the region’s inhabitants are slightly rough around the edges and completely unpretentious, making a stay here feel cozy and inviting. Spend your days taking in the region’s scenic beauty and visiting majestic castles. In the evening, head to the local pub and have some beers with ruddy locals, or curl up by a fire in your warmest wool.

Munich, Germany:  Munich has some pretty interesting sites, including attractive Gothic architecture, world-class museums, and a royal palace. But the sooner you learn that the best thing to do in Munich is laze around in one of the city’s many beer gardens, the happier you’ll be. Munich's beautiful and expansive English Garden contains several of these outdoor watering holes. German efficiency and orderliness makes this city clean, easy to navigate, and an overall pleasant place in which to spend a few days of your vacation. 



Puglia, Italy:  Though it’s on the verge of a tourism boom, Puglia can still serve as your next “get away from it all” vacation… if you go at the right time. Avoid July and August, when Italians flock to the region’s pristine white beaches.  But during the other warm months (and there are quite a few of them at the heel of this boot-shaped country), you’ll have the coastline to yourself. The region’s other main attractions are its food (some say it’s the best in Italy) and charming, Baroque architecture. You can round out your beach days by exploring seaside towns perched precariously over the water and by enjoying al fresco meals as you watch the sun set over the ocean. 


Ljubljana, Slovenia:  One of the most interesting things about this capital city is that there’s almost nothing to do here.  Though the city does have a number of Slovenian national sites, there are no famous, “must see” tourist attractions for foreigners. This, in turn, means that travelers should have little to nothing on their itineraries. But despite the shortage of notable museums and monuments, there are plenty of things to enjoy. Relax at one of the city’s many sidewalk cafés, spend some time meandering through the gorgeous old town, or take a short walk to the hilltop castle for some Alpine views.



Madeira, The Garden in the Atlantic

Fjord Country, Norway:  The Norwegian fjords offer some of the most strikingly beautiful scenery in all of Europe. Majestic cliff faces are divided by snaking rivers, which are impossibly blue from the glacial runoff. The breath-taking landscape will inspire you to relax and take it all in. More active travelers have plenty of hiking opportunities in this region; however, the best views are had looking up from the river. So sit back, and let your boat captain do the heavy lifting.


Madeira, Portugal:  In Madeira, you’ll feel hundreds of miles away from the rest of civilization – and that’s exactly where you’ll be. This island lies in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, and its landscape couldn’t be any more different from that of the motherland. Madeira is a sub-tropical hideaway and is known as the Garden in the Atlantic due to its lush flora and fauna. Travelers can visit blooming botanical gardens, play a round of golf, enjoy dramatic island vistas, and take a soak in natural, ocean-side lava pools. As a bonus, the island is still very European, which means that you’ll get to enjoy charming architecture and amazing cuisine.



The Salzkammergut Lake District, Austria:  There are many stunning lake districts in Europe, and all intrinsically offer opportunities for relaxing getaways. But there is something extra refreshing about Austria’s Salzkammergut area.  The rolling green hills, Alpine peaks, and crystalline blue lakes were the backdrop for the iconic film The Sound of Music and appropriately evoke the spirit of a young Julie Andrews, arms spread wide, bellowing the movie’s title song. Picture-perfect Hallstatt, perched on the shores of a pristine lake, is set back from the main thoroughfares, offering a more isolated and quaint experience.



Hallstatt, Austria



Santorini, Greece:  This island’s magic cannot be spoiled by the throngs of tourists that visit each year. The striking sunsets that float over the sugar-cube-stacked towns and dip down into the expansive caldera are breathtaking and best enjoyed on a balcony, with a beverage.  Escape the masses by descending onto one of the island’s colorful beaches (they come framed by red, white, or black cliff faces and piercingly blue water). Boat trips to the volcano make pit stops at soothing hot springs; or, you can get a more “professional” treatment at one of the island’s many spas. Easy, scenic walks between towns and casual (but delicious) meals add to the island’s leisurely feel.

Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic:  You may not recognize the name, but if you’ve seen the popular James Bond film Casino Royale, you’ll recognize the scenery. Though identified as Montenegro, the setting for the movie’s glitzy casino was actually this Czech spa town. Spinning the roulette wheel might be the most physically taxing thing you do during your stay here. Daytime fun is all about taking a soak in one of the town’s many hot springs or strolling through the historic (and surprisingly peaceful) city center.



Sunset Over Santorini

Five Offbeat Family-Friendly Destinations in Europe

The major metropolises of Western Europe are family-friendly, but they’re also everyone-friendly. Chances are, if you’re well traveled, you (and maybe your children) have already seen Paris, London, and Rome. So, if you’re looking for something different, or if you’re not interested in chasing your kids through urban hustle and bustle, consider taking your next family vacation to one of these more offbeat European destinations.

Devil's Bridge, Kassel, Germany
Photo by Matthias Stump

Fairy Tale Road, Germany:  Northeast of Frankfurt, between the towns of Hanau and Bremen, is a land of castles, cobblestone, wizards, and witches. Crossing through the home of the Brothers Grimm, Germany’s Fairy-Tale Road is thick with images that arouse whimsical imagination in the most unbelieving of mortals. Wind your way through the towns of half-timbered houses and the imposing forests that inspired the settings for your children’s favorite fables, including Sleeping Beauty, Hansel and Gretel, Rapunzel, Snow White, and Little Red Riding Hood. Towns along the road embrace their storied history with puppet-shows, open-air plays, and medieval feasts. 

Lapland, Finland:  Your children will happily brave the elements for the opportunity to meet the “real” Santa Claus. Rovaniemi is home to Kris Kringle, and the city has embraced the honor with a kitschy homage that kids will love and adults will tolerate. You can visit the Santa Claus Village year round, but it’s most festive during the holiday season when there’s that unmistakable Christmas cheer in the air. Highlights include the North Pole’s post office, an exhibition on Christmas celebrations from around the world, and Santa Park, an underground theme park chock-full of holiday spirit. A bonus for parents: Lapland has stunning unspoiled landscapes and good vantage points for viewing the spectacular northern lights.   

Transylvania, Romania
Photo by Eugen

Transylvania, Romania:  Transylvania is not the unearthly land portrayed by Bram Stoker, though it can evoke a slight feeling of eeriness that visitors may find hard to shake. The region holds fast to its Dracula connection; there’s Castle Bran, which is said to be the home of the Count, a number of other Saxon fortresses, and vampire-themed hotels and cafes. Really, Transylvania is more of a pastoral region with charming, old architecture. Still, you won’t have much trouble convincing your children of its place in mythical history. And parents will love the price--Transylvania is relatively inexpensive compared to similar destinations in neighboring Western Europe.

Loire Valley, France:  This ostentatious French region is home to some of the world’s most opulent chateaux. Adults and kids alike will enjoy promenades through perfectly manicured gardens and waltzes through the grand hallways of the country’s Renaissance. Don’t miss  Chambord, the second largest palace in France (next to Versailles), or Chenonceau, with its enchanting bridge arching over the River Cher. The castles’ delightful neighboring towns will give your children the urge to sing in the streets, Beauty-and-the-Beast style.



Chenonceau Castle, Loire Valley, France

 Odense, Denmark:  Birthplace of Hans Christian Anderson, author of famous fairytales such as The Little Mermaid and Thumbelina, Odense celebrates the storywriter with statues, parades, and a museum. Perhaps influenced by its most famous citizen, the town has evolved into a child’s wonderland. There’s a railway museum, one of Europe’s best-preserved water castles, and an impressive zoo. Nearby Billund is home to Legoland, another family-friendly Danish destination.  The kids will be especially happy if you stay at Lalandia, a resort complex with an indoor waterpark.

Paris, France: The City of Cities

Best For:  Charm, Culture, Culinary Scene, Shopping, and Nightlife

Best Time to Visit:  Year-Round

The Eiffel Tower

The first time I visited Paris, I stayed in the heart of the Latin Quarter, steps from the Sorbonne, surrounded by glamorous, cigarette-smoking, impossibly slender and fashionable youth.  Intimidated, I cautiously ate at the trendy cafés and shopped in the stylish stores of the 5th arrondissement.  This was the stereotyped Paris of my imagination.  The second time I visited, I stayed in the unpretentious Oberkampf.  I remember thinking the first time I walked to the metro stop, "there are real people in this city."  The district's shabby chic coffee shops and wine bars were inviting to this Midwestern girl.  Still, I can't tell you which experience was the better one.  Go to Paris, and go back several more times.  You'll find a different city waiting for you with each trip.   

Charm:  Many European cities are either known for their majestic and opulent landmarks or their quirky and unassuming neighborhoods.  Paris has both.  Visitors will be equally enchanted by the winding streets of the Latin Quarter as they are by the grand boulevards displaying the city’s classic sights.  Spend a significant amount of time just wandering and soaking in the beauty.  A twilight boat tour on the Seine is so dazzling, it can even make Paris skeptics fall in love with the city.

Rooftops of Montmartre

Culture:  First-time visitors will have a list of must-see sights to tick off their itineraries.  The Eiffel Tower, Cathédral Notre Dame, Louvre, Arc de Triomphe, and Sacré Coeur all give you that “wow, I’m really in Paris” feel and are an essential introduction to the city’s cultural history.  The remainder of your time sightseeing can be spent tailoring your trip to your liking.  Art and museum buffs have plenty of world-class options, including the Musée d'Orsay, which features 19th century impressionists.  History lovers will want to check out Les Invalides, home to Napoleon's tomb.  Those who love quirky and offbeat sights should consider visiting the underground maze of tunnels and skeletons in the Catacombs.

Culinary Scene:  Paris’s culinary scene gives French food fanatics the opportunity to sample dishes from all around the country.  If you choose your restaurant wisely, you will likely get a better version of the food than if you went straight to the source region.  Paris has the second highest number of Michelin star restaurants in the world, just behind Tokyo.  But not every meal is guaranteed to be great. Tourist traps abound, so don't be afraid to ask the locals where their appetites lead them.   

Louvre and Gardens

Shopping:  From the haute couture of the Champs-Elysees to the trendy boutiques of the Marais and the vintage shops in Saint-Germain-de-Pres, Paris has something to offer any type of shopper.  Bargain hunters will want to consider coming in January when the entire city goes on sale.  Très chic shoppers will remember to always greet store clerks with a “bonjour” and bid farewell with an “au revoir.”  

Nightlife: The city’s after-dark scene has a distinctly upscale feel.  Parisians prefer to sip libations in corner cafes, wine bars, and trendy nightclubs -- those visitors who prefer hole-in-the-wall bars or low-key pubs might have a bit more trouble finding a comfortable drinking spot.  If you’re committed to experiencing the Parisian scene, some good choices include the thriving Marais, chic Champs-Elysees, and unpretentious Belleville areas.  For a taste of vintage Paris, roaring 20’s style, try a cabaret in Montmartre. 

France has so much to offer beyond Paris that it gets difficult to choose where to go next.  Stay tuned for an upcoming blog post linking different travel interests to the French regions that offer them.

If you’re hopping on a plane or inter-Europe train after your stay here, Rome, Barcelona, and Vienna are Paris’s most comparable destination rivals.   

Five Surprising Culinary Scenes in Europe

Cities such as Florence, Paris, and Barcelona are renowned for their gastronomic offerings.  With culinary tourism on the rise, more people are traveling with the sole purpose of experiencing local cuisines, attending food and wine festivals, or taking cooking classes at culinary institutes.  On a continent showcasing a wide variety of high quality fare, tourist classics often overshadow more offbeat food locales.  Consider eating your way through these culinary hidden gems.

Gothenburg, Sweden: “Hey honey, let’s go out for a nice Swedish dinner tonight.”  Sounds weird, doesn’t it?  Aside from in the cafeterias of a certain big box furniture store, Swedish cuisine has yet to catch on in America.  The cards are stacked against the country’s chefs, who are working with barren landscapes and five-month winters that make crop growth and harvest difficult.  But the Swedes are making the most of their local ingredients, and Gothenburg is at the helm of the charge.  Chefs here are whipping up dishes featuring traditional staples, such as reindeer and herring.  Before you cringe, savor the thought of this:  crayfish and squid with a shellfish sauce and crispy potato filled with crab.  Yum. 

Hungarian Palacsintas

Budapest, Hungary:  Hungarian cuisine goes way beyond goulash.  Meats, rich sauces, and hearty dumplings are simmered together in cast-iron skillets, creating the ultimate amalgamation of Eastern European comfort food.  “Lighter” dishes include a wide variety of stews and savory palacsintas (pancakes stuffed with meats and bathed in cream sauce).  The Hungarians are also passionate about their pastries and wine, so raise a glass or a slice of Dobos torte (a layered sponge cake with chocolate butter cream filling), and toast to indulgence. 

Thessaloniki, Greece:  Though you can get amazing food in Greece’s more popular tourist spots, true foodies will want to verge off the beaten path and head north to the country’s second city.  Influenced by neighboring Turkey, Thessaloniki’s cuisine is distinguished by its use of spices.  Ouzeris serve mezedes (Greek small plates), the selection of which changes with the seasons.  Summer dishes feature seafood, while winter is more about game meats.  Meals are complemented by ouzo (an anise-flavored aperitif) and local wines.

Traditional Pie and Veggies

London, England:  We all know the stereotype:  British food is terrible.  After all, any cuisine that uses malt vinegar to enhance its food probably needs to be re-evaluated, right?  Over the past couple of decades, London chefs have been doing exactly that.  Fergus Henderson is largely responsible for the resurgence of offal cuisine (or nose to tail eating), which makes use of every part of an animal.  Don’t necessarily expect a new take on the food – offal cuisine has deep roots in British history.  Just plan to be impressed by how good it is.  And if British food still isn’t your thing, try chicken tikka masala, the UK’s national dish.    

Lyon, France:  Most people head to Paris or one of the famous wine regions to enjoy French food.  But Lyon, located in east-central France, is the birthplace of the country’s time-honored cuisine and is the real food capital of the country.  Squeeze into one of the city’s affordable bouchons (eating taverns) and try a Lyonnais specialty, such as a quenelle (egg, cream, and flour dumpling) or andouille sausage.  More adventurous eaters can sample tripe (pig or cow’s stomach lining) or cerverlas (raw pork sausage).  

Bonus tip:  Lyon is to France as Bologna is to Italy.  For Italia’s best food, skip Rome and Florence and head straight to the city nicknamed La Grassa (the fat one).    

Alsace, France: Where the Cuckoo Clock Meets the Croissant

Best For:  Culture, Culinary Scene, Charm, Natural Beauty, Off the Beaten Path
Best Time to Visit:  April through October 

Bergheim, France

You know that stereotype about French people being... well... snooty?  Alsatians squash it.  A couple of years ago, my friends and I got stuck on Alsace's Route du Vin (Wine Road), with no bikes, no car, and absolutely no hope of catching the last train back to Switzerland.  Not too concerned about our plight, we walked along the road, high on the amazing wine we had been tasting and the views of the vineyards under the setting sun.  We began to notice an incredible phenomenon.  The Alsatians in nearly every car that passed us honked, smiled, and.... waved.  And not just a casual acknowledging wave... A jolly, hearty, clown-like wave.  We had expected this kind of hospitality from the restaurant and vineyard owners but not from the random people on the side of the road.  The spirit of the Alsatian people remind me of how I would sum up this region: delightful.

Streets of Strasbourg

Culture:  This region maintains strong ties with its German heritage while remaining proudly French in character.  Having changed hands between the two countries several times, Alsace offers travelers a unique blend of cultures.  Castle ruins line the ridges of the Vosges Mountains, evidence of the region's extensive history as an area of geographical importance.  Cultural tourists will also want to visit Strasbourg's stately, gothic Cathedrale Notre Dame and Colmar's world-class museums 
  

Culinary Scene:  Many people visit Alsace solely for its delicious cuisine - and with good reason, as it's home to 27 Michelin star restaurants.  The Route du Vin spans over 100 miles and is dotted with 67 wine villages.  Winemakers happily open the doors of their winstubs (wine cellars) to tourists who come to sample the white varietals grown in the area.  Alsace's bi-cultural history is especially evident in its food, as many traditional French dishes are served with a German twist.  Coq au vin comes with a side of spaetzel, and duck confit is dished up with sauerkraut.  Regional specialties include tarte flambe and Baeckeoffe.  The Route du Vin celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, making 2013 an excellent time to visit and savor Alsace's culinary delights.

Colmar canals

Charm:  Alsace's villes fleuries (flower towns) are bursting with charm.  Characterized by half-timbered houses and flower boxes on every window, these near perfectly-preserved medieval villages will make visitors feel as if they've stumbled into a real-life fairy tale.  Explore the nooks and crannies of the towns' cobblestone streets, or park yourself at a cafe and watch village life pass by.  You'll especially love Riquewihr's old town walls and Kaysersberg's castle views.

Natural Beauty:  Nature enthusiasts will be entranced by Alsace's rolling vineyards, set against the backdrop of the Vosges Mountains.  Vineyard walks and hillside hikes are great ways to get immersed in the scenery.  The Sentier Viticole des Perles du Vignoble is one of the area's most scenic vineyard trails.

Off the Beaten Path:  Alsace is one of France's best-kept secrets.  Though you will find other tourists here, the majority of them will not be American.  Conversations will involve exaggerated hand signals and piecing together bits of the French (or German) that you learned in high school.  Bring a car, a bike, or a good pair of walking shoes - many of the sites you'll want to see in this region are not accessible by train.

Many people can see the highlights of Alsace in about three days.  Here are some suggestions for adding on to your trip:

Vineyards along the Route du Vin

Nearby destinations that are similar to Alsace include Luxembourg and Germany's Romantic Road.  You can get to either destination in under 3 hours.


Want to add a little hustle and bustle to your trip?  Try nearby Paris, which has French culture, cuisine, and charm, but also offers great shopping and nightlife.